Start by making a list of your possessions, describing each item and noting where you bought it and its make and model. Clip to your list any sales receipts, purchase contracts, and appraisals you have. For clothing, count the items you own by category — pants, coats, shoes, for example –- making notes about those that are especially valuable. For major appliance and electronic equipment, record their serial numbers, usually found on the back or bottom. It shouldn’t take you very long at first… TV, clock radio, clothes, and your goldfish!

• Don’t put it off!

If you are just setting up a household, starting an inventory list can be relatively simple. If you’ve been living in the same house for many years, however, the task of creating a list may seem overwhelming. Still, it’s better to have an incomplete inventory than nothing at all. Start with recent purchases and then try to remember what you can about older possessions.

• Big ticket items

Valuable items like jewelry, art work and collectibles may have increased in value since you received them. Check with your agent to make sure that you have adequate insurance for these items. They may need to be insured separately.

• Take a picture

Besides the list, you can take pictures of rooms and important individual items. On the back of the photos, note what is shown and where you bought it or the make. Don’t forget things in closets or drawers.

• Videotape it

Walk through your house or apartment videotaping and describing the contents.

• Use a personal computer

Use your PC to make your inventory list. Personal finance software packages often include a homeowners room-by-room inventory program.

Storing the list, photos and tapes

Regardless of how you do it (written list, CD, floppy disk, photos, videotape or audio tape), keep your inventory along with receipts in your safe deposit box or at a friend’s or relative’s home. That way you’ll be sure to have something to give your insurance representative if your home is damaged. When you make a significant purchase, add the information to your inventory while the details are fresh in your mind.

Choosing the Right Pepper Spray

There are so many types of pepper spray on the market today that it has become confusing for you to decide which one to get. There are three basic chemical compounds that compose these defensive sprays.

CS (Orthochlorobenzalmalonitrile)

CN (alphachloroacetaphenone)

OC (Oleoresin Capsicum)

The first two, CS and CN, irritate the membrane tissues and cause stinging and tearing. They can take from 5 to 30 seconds before they are effective and may not work if someone is drunk, on drugs, psychotic, or can’t feel pain. The time delay and the fact that they may or may not be effective, is enough to turn people away from the self defense sprays. However, the remaining compound, OC, does not have these limitations.

OC, or Pepper Spray, is an inflammatory agent; not an irritant. When someone is sprayed with OC pepper spray, the person’s eyes slam shut. Even if someone does manage to get their eyes open, they won’t be able to see because OC dilates the capillaries and causes temporary blindness. Additionally, instant inflammation of the breathing tissues restricts all but life suport breathing. They double over coughing uncontrollably.

But I hear about people who aren’t affected by pepper spray?

What you have heard about are the man made chemical compounds commonly referred to as CS or CN. These are your tear gases. For example, military personnel are subjected to similar chemicals in the course of their training to simulate a chemical attack in a war time situation. After repeated exposure, a resistance is built up so the “gas chamber,” as it is called, does not affect them as much. And it’s true that some people are just not as affected as others are. Other law enforcement personnel, martial artists, and yes, even determined criminals can fight through the effects of CS or CN chemical sprays.

Chemical Compounds that make up defensive sprays:

CS (Orthochlorobenzalmalonitrile)

CN (alphachloroacetaphenone)

OC (Oleoresin Capsicum)

Pepper Spray, on the other hand, has the effect of putting a brick wall in between the assailant and the sprayer. When someone gets a full blast of OC pepper spray, they stop what they are doing. They stop what they are thinking. Even people previously mentioned that could withstand the effects of tear gas, are very personally affected by OC pepper spray. This includes people that are drunk, on drugs, or psychotic.

Ok, so how do I decide which one to buy?

Once it became known that OC is superior to CN and CS, many brands became available with different concentrations, formulations, sizes, and spray patterns. Choosing the right spray is a critical decision if the spray ever has to be used in a self defense situation.

Defensive Sprays Considerations

Size and capacity: Sizes can range from a 1/2 ounce personal pepper spray up to 9 ounces for the bear pepper spray. Keychain sized defensive sprays or sizes easily carried on a belt or in a purse are ideal for most situations. Even the smallest units have enough in them to handle multiple attackers if done properly. The two main factors you want to look for are the range and the number of shots. A 6-8 foot range is plenty since that is where most personal assaults will take place. Most defensive sprays are also classified by number of one second bursts. A good 1-2 second burst will disable almost any assailant.

Spray Pattern: There are two basic types of defensive spray patterns, stream and mist. Stream patterns give good range but require aiming directly at the face. Cone mists have shorter range but you don’t have to aim as well. If there is a breeze, a stream is more controllable. Mists can be blown off target or even back to the sprayer. OC pepper spray works best when it hits the eyes and is inhaled. The mist is inhaled instantly while the stream might take longer for the person to breathe in the pepper spray. In all cases, it is critical to hit the attacker in the face!

What else should I know about purchasing defensive pepper sprays?

Aside from size and capacity, and spray pattern of pepper spray, the formulation can also be a consideration.

Formulation: OC comes in concentrations of 5%, 10%, 15%, or even higher. Bear pepper spray is rated at 20%. Because of different marketing that has evolved around these defensive sprays, the percentage is not always a good indicator of effectiveness. TBO-TECH Self Defense Products only carries the highest quality pepper sprays, including Mace brand, that have been proven to be most effective.

Other factors: Many pepper sprays come on keychains. This is a sound idea because since most people usually have their keys with them, they will also always have their pepper spray with them. But don’t forget about the times you don’t have your keys. The small investment in an extra pepper spray could actually save your life!

The best pepper spray in the world or the most extensive training will amount to nothing if you don’t do two things: Carry your pepper spray wherever you go and practice using it!

Smoke & Heat Detectors- Smoke detectors are available that will interface with your security system. The smoke detectors that are already in your home can’t be tied into your security system. The device that the builder put in your home is either electrical, battery operated, or in some instances both, if you have the better quality detectors. Lifesaving smoke detectors should be in every home. If you elect to add some to your system, your existing detectors should be left in place, as they are still able to help give early warning in case of a fire.

If you add a smoke detector to your system it should be placed in the highest point of your home as possible, as smoke will rise no matter where it originates. Some homeowners elect to place one in the basement and top floor, and some want one added to every floor.

The technology that makes most of these devices work is “photoelectric technology.” This means that the detector basically takes a snapshot of the density of smoke that enters its chamber, and wants to see a density increase as it samples every few milliseconds. This technology makes the detector much more discriminating then its inexpensive counterparts.

Many of these devices also detect temperature change with their built in heat detectors. This means that the device will go into an alarm condition, if the temperature in its area of coverage is rising rapidly, even if there is no smoke yet. Independent heat detectors are also available, if you would like an added degree of protection in areas such as kitchens, furnace rooms, attics and fireplaces. (Required to meet code, in some municipalities)

There are many advantages to adding fire devices to your security system. Some of them are:

* Your detector is on all the time, even if your alarm is disarmed.
 

* The devices work off the power from your alarm system and use its backup power supplies should power fail.
 

* The siren will emit a tone that is audibly different then a burglary siren, so that you can differentiate.
 

* Your dispatch is being made without you having to call for help yourself. This gives you more time to gather your loved ones and pets for immediate exit.
 

* A dispatch will take place even if you are not home. Typically flames will be coming through your roof, by the time your neighbors see them, and call for help. This early response may save your pets and a good portion of your home.
 

* Insurance companies often give an additional discount, off your homeowners insurance, for having a fire system. These devices could effectively pay for themselves, after a few years.

(INSIDE SCOOP!) Some municipalities will not dispatch their limited resources to an automatic fire alarm, unless it is designed completely to local code. This is a very expensive endeavor that, many homeowners in those areas can’t justify. Businesses will have to do this, in order to get an occupancy permit. Check with your local fire authority before investing in smoke or heat detectors that will not get a response.

One area of home security that is often overlooked, and one of the most visible, is the common key. Even if you are the owner of a new house, or the first tenant of your apartment, you cannot be sure that no one else has a key to your door.

Many times new locks are supplied to a building site that are keyed with special construction keys and pins. The theory is that when the builder turns the property over to the owner of the property, inserting and turning the owner key will trap the construction pins, rendering the construction keys useless. The reality is that not all projects receive locks that are construction keyed, some manufacturers do not offer the option, some builders may buy their hardware from a regular hardware store, etc.

Others who could have a key to your home include, the builder or a construction worker, real estate agent, ex owner or tenant, friend or relative of last owner or tenant, any of a dozen or so service people, or a neighbor who still lives next door.

The first thing you should do when moving into a new home, is have the locks recombinated by a professional locksmith. If you are renting or leasing, and the building owner or manager, cannot or will not assure you that the locks have been changed, do not move in.

Another area of concern is how you handle your keys. You should not have anything on your key ring that identifies you or has your address on it. If you feel this is necessary, see your professional locksmith, they can decode and record your keys, some will keep a record for you. If leaving your car at a parking or service facility, don’t leave any keys on the key ring, other than keys to the car, and don’t leave the trunk key, if you have any valuables in it.

If your keys are marked “Do Not Duplicate” or “Unlawful to Copy” are they safe and secure? People have been known to cover those markings with tape, liquid plastic, rubber key boots, etc. Not all persons who duplicate keys will look under these covers. The minimum wage clerk at the local variety store or hardware store cannot be faulted for not heeding those warnings. Some may even look at them as a challenge.

A good option to explore with your professional locksmith is the use of controlled distribution keys, or high security cylinders, along with controlled distribution keys. These systems feature keys that are not obtainable to key duplicators who are not contracted to purchase them. In some systems the actual keys are patented. One popular High Security, key control manufacturer asks the following questions in their advertising. “Do you give your keys to anyone?”, “Do you mind if they have copies made without your permission?” Unlike standard keys, high security keys are protected by patents and are only provided to authorized, contracted distributors or dealer locksmiths. The duplication of these keys cannot be done without your express permission. Some are so closely controlled that they are only duplicated by the manufacturer, and then sent to the authorized owner. Using this type of security for your keys, gives you the control over who has the keys to your castle.

Alarm System Glass-break detectors- Glass-break detectors are also known as “Audio Discriminators”. They are a perimeter device because they catch a burglar attempting to make entry into your home or business as opposed to walking around the interior and being picked up by a motion detector. They are available in both hardwired and wireless versions. The detector mounts in a wall or ceiling and listens to an area approximately 35 feet in all directions. They do not hear through walls or around corners or into a room because the door is open. The more windows you have in a device’s area of protection, the better the value. Some examples of good coverage are as follows.

* If you have an open concept kitchen, breakfast nook and family room you can cover all the windows with one device because they are within the 35- foot area.

* If you have a living room with many windows you can cover them all because they are in the same area. Often the dining room is within the coverage area and can be protected with the same device.

* If you have an unfinished basement with windows, this is a very vulnerable area. You can cover all the windows with a single device in most cases.

The glass break detector listens for the frequency of breaking glass and splintering wood. In the not so distant past the only glass breaks available were “Single Technology” devices. These listened for the frequency of breaking glass and splintering wood only. The problem was that sounds such as lightning cracking, some peoples sneezes, clanking two glasses together in the sink or a pet bird squawking would replicate this frequency and cause false alarms that only the most cunning detectives would figure out.

Although the single technology devices are still being used today because they cost alarm companies less to purchase, a well-informed consumer would insist on the newer “Duel Technology” device. The new devices must hear a “Thump” and than a frequency hit, in that precise order in order to go into an alarm condition. Lets see if you understand what I’m telling you about the new technology.

Q: If you sneeze at the same time your bird lets out a squawk and this causes you bang your head on the wall, will this make your alarm go off if it is armed?

A: (NO) because it did not happen in the correct order. You would have to bang your head on the wall first.

This small advancement in the use of artificial intelligence has created a very dependable device that you can count on to defend your perimeter.

One of the downfalls of the sound discriminator is that they are costly and you need one in each room that is vulnerable. These would be accessible windows on the main or lower level or upstairs windows with roof or deck access. I recommend placing these devices in the areas of most concern and backing them up with a main floor motion detector. This way you don’t spend your children’s inheritance turning your home into Fort Knox.

(WISE WORDS!) The best security systems are the ones where you don’t put all your eggs in one basket!

Security and convenience are usually delicately balanced. If something is secure it isn’t convenient and vice versa. It’s convenient to leave your keys in the ignition, but it isn’t secure. Keyless access products offer both aspects in an attractive package.

MECHANICAL KEYLESS LOCKS

· All pushbutton locks use a code instead of a key to unlock the door. Older mechanical pushbutton locks work, but they are limited to one working code at a time.

ELECTRONIC KEYLESS LOCKS

· MULTIPLE USERS These keyless locks offer the ability to have dozens or hundreds of individual user codes. Each user can be added or deleted without affecting others.

· SETTING CODES Adding, deleting or changing user codes is quick and easy. Basic models are programmable at the keypad. You can manage large groups of user codes with software on a laptop or PDA.

· AUDIT TRAIL AND TIME ZONES Some models will keep an audit trail of who used or attempted to use the lock and when they used it. Time zones can be set up that tell the lock who is authorized to enter and when they are authorized. Time zones can be set up for specific hours of specific days, shifts, opening and closing times, or to exclude weekends or holidays.

· USE EXISTING CREDENTIALS Some units can be equipped to accept various credentials such as swipe cards, proximity cards or fobs, even your own credit card. This allows the integration of Stand Alone Keyless products into existing access control systems, without the expense of changing existing credentials, or added separate credentials for only that lock. This feature can also allow the use of dual credentials for high security applications.

· WIRELESS Most stand-alone keyless access units operate on four standard AA batteries, eliminating the need for costly additional wiring and bulky external power supplies to activate the unit. However some can optionally be hardwired when battery power is not practical.

· EASY RETROFIT Keyless access products are designed to quickly replace existing lock hardware. The existing holes in the door are re-used and lock designs and finishes complement the existing commercial hardware in your facility.

· COMPATIBILITY Keyless locks are made for use with most brands of exit devices, mortise locks, knob/lever locks, deadbolts, etc. Most units allow for emergency key override. This feature can be utilized with a restricted (or high security) key or keyed to match your existing master key system.

· I/C PREP The popularity of interchangeable core locking systems (BEST-type) fits right in with these locks. Use your existing control keys and cores to maintain system integrity.

· GRADE 1 DEPENDABILITY Heavy-duty commercial locks are rated as Grade 1. Keyless access products in the market today allow you to meet Weatherproof, Grade 1, ADA and Fire Life-Safety requirements. Others are rated Grade 2 for use in standard-duty hardware applications.

Contact your local Locksmith or other Security Professional for complete information.

One of the biggest heartbreaks surrounding the Hurricane Katrina aftermath is the lack of preparation made for such a large-scale evacuation – and the despair of those who have become separated from their loved ones in the midst of the chaos and who have no idea if they are safe, or even alive.

Don’t be caught unprepared if a disaster strikes your family. Before you need it, you and your family should have a plan in place for reaching safety and for keeping the others apprised of your situation. Don’t rely on rescue workers and relief organizations to provide for your family’s safety, or to be able to tell you whether or not they are okay. These organizations, if they’re even present, will almost assuredly be overwhelmed and understaffed. They will be dealing with the situation in a triage manner of prioritization and even if they are able to help locate family members, their information may be incorrect. Make sure you have alternative plans for keeping your family safe and connected.

1. Have at least two out-of-state relatives or friends designated as check-in home bases, by whatever means necessary. Make sure that everyone knows to call, email or snail-mail these places as soon as possible, should they be separated in an emergency. Of course, you should offer to provide the same service in return. Note: sometimes SMS/text messaging will work even if the cell phone services are spotty and unreliable. Use this feature whenever you can’t make a good connection otherwise. Send as short a message as possible to ensure delivery, even just your name and “okay” to let everyone know that you are safe.  
2. For localized emergencies (fire, tornado, etc) have a designated meeting spot near enough to reach, but far enough away for safety. Everyone should know to meet there for a check-in as soon as they safely can. Ideas include a local store or church, the corner mailbox, the neighbor’s yard, a nearby park or school, etc. You should set up more than one, to allow for varying degrees of disruption. For example: in case of house fire, everyone meets at the lamppost on the corner. But in case of wider-spread destruction, go to the church at the top of the hill. For truly large-scale events, such as hurricanes and massive earthquakes, evacuation orders will likely supersede these options, but if possible try to regroup first then evacuate.  
3. Set up a “bug-out” bag (see article here) and make sure that everyone knows where it is and that it is to be a part of any evacuation except a house fire – everyone should know never go after any material items in the event of a fire. Also make sure that everyone knows where emergency gear such as fire extinguishers, first aid kits, evacuation maps, emergency numbers and so forth are kept.  
4. If you have a bank account set up for emergency situations, make sure that all responsible adults have access to it and know how to get to it. Also make sure that anyone who does have access is a responsible adult. You don’t want to be out on the street after a disaster only to find your emergency account empty because “someone” needed shopping money (or worse) last month.  
5. Designate someone in your family to be the “tribal leader” in the case of an emergency. Normally, this will be a parent or guardian, but in some cases it may be an adult child or other relative. Choose someone who has shown that they can operate with a clear head in emergencies, who reliably makes smart choices out of bad options and who has demonstrated an ability to lead without abusing power. Work out an order of second and third choices, in case the originally chosen leader is incapacitated. In an emergency, it is vital that valuable time not be spent debating various alternatives. Unless someone clearly sees a better option that the leader is not aware of, everyone should know beforehand that, no matter what normal give and take the family may be used to, in an emergency situation they are to do exactly what the leader says without argument or hesitation.

Don’t leave your family’s survival in an emergency up to luck and quick thinking. There are far too many things that can go wrong in such a situation. Set up a plan and run your family through it a few times a year, just like a fire drill, to make sure everyone knows what to do. First, get to safety. Second, take a headcount if possible. Third, follow the leader until the situation stabilizes. Fourth, try to make contact with missing members. And finally, if the emergency is a long-term situation, set up a “base camp” with routines and regular check-ins to establish a sense of order and safety as soon as possible.

Facing the prospect of partial or even complete destruction of everything you know and love is a fearful thing, and many people would rather avoid thinking about it as much as possible. But knowing that your loved ones are prepared to make it through such an event, and that they know how to take advantage of this preparedness, goes a long way toward making the crisis bearable.